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1966 Volvo Other

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1966 Volvo Other for Sale
1966 Volvo Other for Sale1966 Volvo Other for Sale

US $35,000.00

Interior Color:Black
Number of Cylinders:4
Engine:B20 custom
Body Type:Coupe
Drive Type:RWD
Vehicle Title:Clear
Fuel Type:Gasoline
Sub Model:P1800
Exterior Color:Gray
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Vehicle information

Sale price: US $35,000.00
Car location: Redondo Beach, California, United States
For sale by: Private Seller
Last update: 5.09.2019

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Custom 1966
Volvo P1800s

At 50 years
old, this car has been built to last another 50.  I’m only selling it due to my permanent
relocation overseas.   Currently registered
in California, insured and with a clean title.  Email me for more photos.


A few
quick highlights:

engine built by Phil Singer, the top vintage Volvo engine builder:  B20 engine 0.040” overbore and head flow
ported.  Ross Racing pistons and a Volvo
“D” camshaft.

All new
upholstery by Santiago Gil, one of the best in Los Angeles.

New custom paint
and body work, from bare metal.

Custom wheel
fitment by Jewel Tire.

stored always.

All machine
work done by Vellios Machine Shop – true experts.


This car has
been completely rebuilt.  Here is a partial
list of the many things that have been done:

Springs from V-Performance

All suspension
bushings replaced with polyurethane and rubber

All new tie
rods and ball joints

New KYB shocks
front and rear

Custom idler
arm bush designed and made by Vellios Machine Shop

New motor
and transmission mounts

Sachs clutch kit
balanced to flywheel

Aligned by
Lee’s Automotive

reinforced at shock mounts, stripped and powder coated

Rebuilt starter
motor and alternator at Rotex

tested and repaired by Crandal Radiator; 
new radiator cap

New PIAA dual-tone

All new
upholstery: seats to original design, floor and trunk matts, door panels

Interior completely
covered with Dynamat to deaden sound before re-upholstery

instruments repaired/rebuild

Brake system
rebuilt.  New front brake calipers, front
rotors, new pads front and back, new flex lines and rear brake cables, rear
brake drums, rear cylinders, rear limit straps.

New master
cylinder and Powertune/Lockheed brake booster

Rear brake
proportioning valve rebuilt, new seals

New drive
shaft U-joints

New gaskets

cleaned and tuned by California Carburetor

Engine bay
cleaned, rust removed and repainted

All rubber
seals replaced: windows, doors, hood, trunk and bumper, foot pedals, shifter,
firewall, etc.

New, modern
tires – Michelin Premier A/S 195/65R15

Custom wheel
fitment – Katana TM1 by Jewel Tire

Trim and
bumpers powder coated gloss black by Verne’s Chrome

New side window
channel felt and scrapers

New front

Extra set of
keys made.  Keylocks matched.

New exhaust
pipe and mufflers, new rubber hangers

Gas tank
cleaned and lined by Gardena A/C & Radiator Service

header Ceramic coated for reduced heat in engine bay

wheel leather wrapped by Amadeus Upholstery

New steering

tinted to 35%

New satin car

This car is
in excellent functional condition and can be driven without hesitation.  Being a classic car, there always a few
things that could use some attention. 
Here are the things that I see as issues with the car: I really
wanted this to be a quiet car, which I why I lined it with Dynamat and felt
under the upholstery.  Nevertheless,
there are still some rattles that are annoying. 
They are small things, like screws under the dash and panel clips in the
door.  I haven’t had the time to deal
with them, but they are the first thing I would do with this car.There is no
audio system in the car.  This is the
second thing I would do to this car.The carburetors could be rebuilt for slightly smoother running.One corner
of the passenger door and one corner of the trunk are a slightly out of line.  It should be a small job for a body shop to put them back in place.The hood
should be heat shielded at some point, to protect the paint.  Similarly, the cabin
roof could be insulated to keep the interior more comfortable. Front orange
turn lights have slight mismatch.  The window
sprayers work, but not really well.  I don’t
use them because I don’t want water sitting on the car, nor do I let the car
get that dirty.  The cap on the wash reservoir
doesn’t match the bottle.  I wouldn’t bother
with them.There are three
chips in the clear coat less than 1.5mm. 
There is one scratch, about 1” long below driver door that goes into the
color coat.The
differential oil probably hasn’t been flushed in a while, and so I would suggest
doing that at some point.  The seat belts
are probably original.  I wonder about their
safety in a crash, and so would consider replacing them at some point.   Further notes on the car: This car
originally ran on 97 octane gas, which isn’t available anymore.  I add octane booster to premium (91 octane)
to prevent the engine from dieseling.  I
have heard that California gas in particular causes dieseling in classic cars,
so if this car goes out of state, one might not need the octane booster.The wheels I
put on the car are wider than the original, so the front wheels rub on the sway
bar when doing a three point turn, at speeds less than 5mph.  They don’t rub during normal driving, and the
rubbing hasn’t damaged the paint nor wheel. 
This car has
poor rain runoff management, in that it can collect in a couple spots and cause
rust.  The rust has been repaired, but I
would not store this car where it can get wet.The dash cover
and door bolsters are plastic, not fabric.This car has
no AC system.  You could have one custom
installed, and there is some room in the engine bay for a compressor, but something
else would probably have to be moved, making it an expensive job.  I just keep the windows down.

I have a
collection of spare parts and manuals (printed and electronic) that I will
include with the sale.
This car has
been completely disassembled, repaired and rebuilt with the utmost care.  The above list does not include the many,
many little parts that had to be replaced or repaired along the way.  I hope you will appreciate it as much as I



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