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1985 BMW 6-Series for Sale
1985 BMW 6-Series for Sale1985 BMW 6-Series for Sale

US $3,500.00

Condition:Used
Year:1985
Mileage:209000
Model:6-Series
Vehicle Title:Clean
Manufacturer:Bmw
Body Type:Coupe
Number of Cylinders:6
:“1985 635csi, absolutely no rust, runs and drives well, needs some work,but everything is disclosed below. Easy to make a #2 car #1 car without rebuilding the whole car, or just drive it.”
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Sale price: US $3,500.00
Car location: Tacoma, Washington, United States
Last update: 11.10.2020
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Description

1985 635csi, this car is essentially a one owner and for the most part has always been garaged. There is not rust on this car and it has never been in an accident. There's a few minor dings and dents. Ask if you want to know how they got there because I do know.
This car is in very good condition and has had quite a bit of recent work done to it. I had it in my garage for years, never put stuff on it etc. most of the mechanical rubber components were the reasons the car was parked It runs and drives without problem and needs some refreshing and of course plastic bits and pieces. I could beat it to death with the whole story of the car since the day it was new, but let's just get to the pro's and con's. If you have any questions, just ask. I can inform you of any and all details on this car.
Pro's: (New parts means replaced at 206,000)1 Owner (plus son)
New Parts: (New parts means replaced at 206,000)Tires, GR-2 Struts front, KYB Gas adjust rear, strut and shock mounts, dog bones, all front control arms, idler arm, tie rods, steering links, steering box repairs, sleeve completed including weld to crossmember, transmission cooling lines, water pump, starter, S.I.  board, speedo drive gear, hella lamps (driver low needs new glass), differential mount, heater core, front calipers and lines, front and rear pads, rear brake lines, fan clutch, plugs air filter etc, front pulse generator, behr thermostat, oil pressure sender, hood struts, cleaned and replaced grease in wiper motor, all of the windows work. Rear exhaust  was replaced not long ago with a factory replacement.
Con's: (or needs attention)Relays need replacement. All work except high speed fan-verified, Voltage regulator - Battery drains if not driven for 4 or 5 days - No short, unplugged every single item one at a time and it is the regulator. Drive it daily and you would never know. Obviously the seats need upholstery. They work fine. I did grease all the cables on the passenger seat and would recommend doing the driver seat. driver ctsy. light switch needs replaced. relay and light work fine. one of the washer squirters is clogged and the low washer fluid warning is on,A/C needs recharge, never been converted from R-12. A/C fan switch does not work on high, heat lever needs l.e.d., low oil sender in pan needs cleaned or replaced, LF ABS sensor needs repair or replaced, air intake boots merit replacement but not leaking, fuse box cover and external relay mounts need attention, stainless key cover on driver door handle missing, trunk lock solenoid for central locking system doesn't work, left trunk hinge was bent at some point, absolutely no way was the trunk going to open,had to make a hole behind lic. plate to access. covered but not repaired with metal, no bends in deck lid, opens and closes no problem. it's due for tail light housings, clear coat buffed to minimum. It doesn't need paint (base coat) except a couple of spots should be dusted in but it needs a clear coat respray. So sand the clear coat for adherence, blend the basecoat in a few places, new clear coat and buff.There is no reason to go through the paint on any part of the car. One of the left front control arm bushings failed. German made but nobody is perfect, LF fog lamp glass cracked, may need a heater control valve. heater cooks. minor clunk on decel. Not really an issue. It's either the center carrier or the diff mount I replaced. I've heard using the M style mount is recommended. The fuel gauge is inaccurate. (short story here) Car wouldn't start and ultimately, I put the fuse in the blank next to it. I started testing the fuel system and began at the sender. I'm guessing that I didn't plug it or the suction pump wiring back in tightly (in the trunk) Sometimes it takes 3 cranks to start and one time it acted like it was out of fuel when the reserve light came on, rolled downhill, problem stopped, took 7 gallons and was fine. So either it needs a suction pump and sender worst case, or like I said, I didn't plug it in correctly. I would check it but I physically can't bend over into the trunk to do so. I was giving it a tune up and the rear pulse generator plug came undone. I went to plug it back in and it DISINTEGRATED! Seriously, turned to sand. I had to strip the wires back into the harness about 6 inches to get a good connection. The crank sensors should be replaced ($50 ea) and factory plug put back on, harness taped etc. The hard part is done and it doesn't affect the car driving.
I'm  not going to go over the plastic pieces etc that need attention, the car is 35 years old and a California car. Not wasted by any means, but some of it needs attention. The car looks  good at 10-15 ft, runs and drives well,and has a known history of every detail. Almost all of the rubber seals are in excellent condition, everything important and actually pretty much everything works It has 16 X 8 and 16 X 9 Epsilon Southern Ways wheels with 245/50/16 225/50/16 tires, the chrome needs to be redone again. Has correct magnetic wheel locks. The wheels are worth a lot of money if you know what they are.If you want to make an offer without them, go ahead but you will supply wheels and tires at pick up before they are removed. Chances are that I will say no anyway. They look great on the car and were put on n 1985 when we got the car.
I know the car has some issues and what it takes to fix them. I'm disclosing pretty much everything, the pictures say the rest. To give you an idea of the condition, I had a guy come up to me fawning over the car (happens a lot), heard it start and offered 10k on the spot. Probably should have taken it but wasn't ready to sell. I could be one of the 80% out there and say '"One-Owner, perfect condition, dealer serviced etc, etc...." then you buy the car and make it a block and the whole car falls apart. This is more than a fair price for this car and you won't  be disappointed. There is nothing wrong with the engine, transmission or rear end. Always dealer serviced.
I do have the factory radio, but I installed a newer pioneer with all the current tech. There's a box in the trunk with 2 10" Pioneers, a 2 channel Nakamichi 140 watt amp, a 4 channel Nakamichi 140 watt amp, pioneer 4 x 6 rear sony 4 x 6 in front an a couple of cleverly mounted mini tweeters near the shifter. I also replaced the antenna mast with a Factory (b.s.) replacement but of course the cable is too long so it makes noise going up or down. Factory motor is fine. Looks exactly like the original though. I have the original deck and did not cut any wires or drill one single hole in the car to install this. So I guess you get a pretty kick ass 80's stereo system with the car.
If you want pictures, information or want to test drive it if you're local...speak up.
I have title in hand. Please no stupid offers. 
As  an example; was going to sell it a couple of years ago for $7500. A guy 3000 miles away graciously offered to give me half of what I was asking and was even willing to let me drive it down there and deliver it to him all at my expense! I almost couldn't say no.
I'm not going to list this car 50 times  and probably not even twice. I'll just put it back in the garage. Just an FYI if you plan on trying to  lowball it.

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Tacoma, Washington, United States

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